Mami Wata anzi go ti azo (Mami Wata steals men's voices)

     My European/American expat colleagues did not know about Mami Wata.  This (usually white, blond) female spirit lives within bodies of water, from which she can emerge to . . . well, it depends whom you ask, but it's usually not good.  In any case, she causes many problems here.  Back in Peace Corps days I recall that the fish-farming volunteers were challenged by reluctance of Central Africans to sleep next to their fish ponds to prevent fish theft, because of the risk of Mami Wata (knowledgeable readers feel free to correct me).  Also, when I briefly visited the hospital in my Peace Corps town of Berberati while in medical school,  the second most frequent diagnosis in the internal medicine ward was possession by Mami Wata (these were young men who spent several days catatonic, after which the curse lifted.)  The topic arose when I asked about the danger she might pose to fisherman in the nearby river (thankfully there are few Mami Wata in the Ouaka River near Bambari!)  The American nurse manager and Austrian/Iranian psychiatrist were surprised as one after another our African ex-pat colleagues -  International NGO career professionals, Muslim, Catholic, Protestant; from countries as far apart culturally and geographically as Rwanda and Senegal - all offered to provide their own knowledge, understanding and friends' and family's experiences of Mami Wata and her habits.  


Sunset over Hopital Regional Universitaire de Bambari

     I did make a cross-cultural error, which my friend and colleague has kindly forgiven.  The radiology department (an x-ray machine and computer) is run by a Central African who left (pushed out?) 3rd year (of 6) medical school.  In addition to helping me read films and build French medical vocabulary,  we discuss cases.  One day while discussing a case when looking at an x-ray I said, "he's going to die."  "You must not say that.  You said that about my cousin, and then he died."  I had summoned death by explicitly predicting it, which I know with patients and families but neglected with him by seeing him only as a medical colleague, disregarding cultural norms and pervasive family connections.  He has graciously accepted my apology and promise not to do so in future.

  


Me and Prince in Radiology

Comments

  1. AnonymousNovember 6, 2022 at 1:30 PM

    Hi Jeff, this is Margie Kendle. Very interesting to hear about your experiences, written in classic J. R. style. Take care

    ReplyDelete

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